Why run drywall horizontally

These framing spacings are only acceptable for half inch regular board when no water-based textures are being applied to the ceiling. The lightweight drywall panels meet the same performance standards as interior ceiling boards as they are more resistant to sagging. An often overlooked factor is the insulation in the ceiling.

Always consider the weight of the insulation: half inch regular drywall can support 1. For reference, blown-in fiberglass insulation is approximately 0. Plus, looking for more drywall tips from the pros? Learn how to select the right finish for the right walls. Nevertheless, I have seen contractors that work with metal stud frames installing foot sheets of drywall vertically. The motives for installing the vertical installation of the foot sheets of drywall vertically or up and down in this case are very simple.

No structural strength is needed in such walls since they are just partitions that divide rooms and normally the drywall only needs to be finished up to 9 feet. It is the only time I have seen someone run drywall vertically. The manufacturer recommends horizontal installation of the 8-foot sheets of drywall.

Horizontal installation of drywall means installing the 8-foot side of the drywall side to side and the 4-foot side of the drywall up and down. Concerning finishing the drywall, the 4-foot seams running either vertically or up and down will not be as noticeable as those running up and down the entire wall.

Any recommendations? Joined Jul 11, Messages Location Oklahoma. Normal practice is to run vertical with the studs. However, I have seen some guys run horizontal seams in order to minimize waste, etc.

Stevie-Ray Well-known member. I'll be drywalling my garage this winter as well. I've come to the conclusion that I will be hanging my 4X8 panels vertically. Reason is, it will be a long, drawn out process with the panels hung without mud for maybe a year.

When not finishing the job in one fell swoop, vertically strung panels look better, IMO. If I was going straight to finish, I probably would hang them horizontally. If that is also a factor in your project, you might consider it.

Joined Nov 23, Messages Location Philly. Go vertical with the 10' lightweight sheets and it is not bad to do. Just did my garage a month or so ago. Curious about the answers because when they did my shop all were done with long sheets horizontal.

This may have been for less waste. Also they did the bottom sheet first, then the top, cut for the middle last. I did my basement horizontal. Next time it's vertical, you have wall seems with factory tapered edge. Your taping will be easier and better looking. There will probably be some good drywall guys chime in about going horizontal though. I heard it's done like that so the seam is at the 4' mark. It makes the seam harder to see as it's not at eye level. We just finished doing two walls in the shop and my dad, who used to do drywall in a previous life, wanted to go horizontal.

This was all on 8' walls though, so YMMV on a 10' wall. I've only seen vertical installation by professionals a few times. Most hang the rock perpendicular to the studs, both on the ceiling and on the walls. Definitely on the ceiling - the edges help to keep the sheetrock from sagging if they're perpendicular to the studs. If you're considering vertical installation, think about these issues: If your stud spacing isn't 48" increments dead-on, you're either gonna fall short of a stud at some point, or you're going to have to trim something off the edge of a too-wide sheet.

Trimming the edge of a sheet is a PITA. With horizontal, if you fall short, you can just cut back to the previous stud. If it's too long, trimming the edge is no big deal - score the front AND the back, then use a sureform tool rasp for working with sheetrock to remove the gypsum that remains.

You need to be really good at taping and floating. It's very rare to get a perfectly flat seam between sheets - usually there is a small hump spread over 12" or so. Your eye will be drawn to those 12" wide vertical humps in the wall that run from floor to ceiling. You won't notice a 12" horizontal hump 48" off the floor Going up and down a ladder to tape and float the vertical seams is not too fun. Hung horizontally, you've got one seam easily worked from ground level, and one seam at the ceiling for an 8' foot installation The ceiling-to-wall joint typically only requires 2 coats of mud - one to bed the tape, and another to cover the tape - the seam at 48" will take 3 coats to completely hide 4 or 5 if you tape and float like I do You can't do 10'ers horizontally if you have 16" stud spacing that takes 12' sheets, not typically available at home centers and not something you can do solo - you can with 24" spacing.

One tip I picked up years ago that might do you some good. Use a 4" knife when bedding the tape. When you come back for the 2nd coat of mud, use an 8" knife that's been modified. This creates one face that will create a crown of mud on the wall, and the other face that creates a dish. Mark the face of the handle so you can tell which is which. When I put the mud on the tape the 2nd coat after bedding the tape in , I use the crown side up first.

This creates a nice layer of mud over the tape. Then I come back at each edge of the mud bed with the knife reversed to feather the edge of the mud where it meets the rock. The reverse curve keeps the edge of the knife from leaving a score line down the middle of the mud bed.

I've also recently switched to using a hawk a 12" flat aluminum plate with a handle in the middle of the back - typically a tool of plasterers and stucco men instead of the trays. Way easier to clean and work with the mud. For final work, I also use a metal finishing trowel - I think mine is 12 or 14" long, instead of a 12" taping knife.

Buy the lightweight pre-mixed mud. It works the same as the "standard" but it weighs less which you'll appreciate over time.

I thin the mud with about oz of water per box. Then I mix it well - slowly to not add air. Even if you don't add water - get a paddle mixer and mix the mud.

It loosens the consistency and makes it WAY easier to apply. There are oodles of videos on YouTube - they give good examples of all aspects of sheetrock work. Good luck. SlappyWhite Well-known member. If you do vertical the entire length of every seam will be well should be supported from behind assuming the screws are not very far apart. May or may not be an issue When sheet is put over, screw loosely into place not completely and not near canisters.

Go at your mark, this will be the inside of canister cut to the edge. Pull out and now you can tell where the outside edge is. Cut a circle with an angle so you are not eating away the seen drywall. Think of an underbank on a river's edge: top is fine yet under is swept away. On the 4' runs of drywall, 5 screws will suffice. One per edge, one in middle and one each off the middle between the edges.

Seams staggering screws but many more, 1 screw per 2 inches. Also all screws flat not sunken in or sticking out! Hang the board horizontally start with it touching the ceiling. So you have 12' run against the ceiling and work your way down. Let's say the wall is 8' 6". First horizontal row starts highest touching the ceiling. Then next row touches that. On your edges remember you have cornerbead that is a light metal the makes all corners straight.

Do not run your drywall to the very exact edge. This won't allow the cornerbead to be as pliable as the plasterer or drywall finish guy needs.

Second, get a foot lift for walls; this makes seams tight as hell. All seams should be tight—hack work will be noticed by eyes and finished product with sunlight can reveal shit work.

It all starts with hanging. Electrical outlets on wall. Get sheet into place and lean it away and spot where holes should go. Then tap those places with the ax end of hammer. Screw sheet into place, then route the holes: Find edge and then go around the perimeter by feel. You shouldn't be patching small pieces. The 12' provide great scraps, just use them don't cut every full board then start to use cut offs. They need to be used together.

Never use marker. It bleeds through and will never be covered by paint. Same with windows: run full size boards across the span the most effective direction. Do not end a sheet next to a window. This causes a stress crack when the home settles!!!

Say there's a hallway with a door and it is exactly 56" wide. Put that 56" across touching the ceiling then piece in the two small sides underneath. Save any scraps and if needed patch work for closets only. Always run the if needed strip out of eyesight line. For example with walls: Full top row, full second row, then strip near floor. I am red seal journeyman interior systems mechanic I can put up or more sheets a day by standing vertical. Walls over 12' high stager but joints with backing added for proper fire rating.

If you prefer horizontal then add backing every 4' along bevel for fire rating so ask yourself what makes since is faster and nicer finish least amount backing. Using sissor lift one man can do this by putting price of track at outside base of platform. Stand sheet against wall climb on lift and lift sheet put in track and go up to height lift sheet top towards lift bottom towards wall place on top of existing sheet u can use you foot to insure sheet dose not slip then lean top into wall.

It is common sense something not many people have. Work smart not hard don't let drywall be smarter then you. Also any imperfection with the framing will show up like dogs balls if fixed vertically while it would simply be bridged otherwise.

Any light coming in through windows or doors will not immediately highlight the difference in texture like it would 3 or 4 joints running from top to bottom perpendicular to the light source.

Even in the case of long runs any finisher or painter would agree that one horizontal joint and two butts will give a way better finish than 7 or 8 vertical joints. Downlights etc are nothing compared to natural light when it comes to showing up joints and difference in texture.

I personally find it hard to believe it makes any difference to structural strength whether you fix horizontally or vertically. Regulations regarding fire proofing are something else but unlikely to be relevant to anyone reading this. I am aware the op has probably finished his project decades ago but somehow I stumbled across this so no doubt many others have as well and felt I should try to clear it up for anyone in the future as a lot of what has been said here is simply wrong.

Horizontal is more efficient, will give you a better finish and will give you less problems in the future with houses settling timber shrinking and all those lovely things, cheers. Generally vertically; that way there isn't a horizontal join that may show a crack over time.

Board lengths are usually sufficient that one board will cover floor to ceiling without a join. The only time I'd expect to see it horizontal would be if it was the first layer, prior to it being covered by a second layer - where you want the joints to be staggered, for example when it is used for fire protection or sound attenuation.